Review: Fish Shop, Benburb Street

Tucked away beside a Luas track, on a street that you’ve definitely passed but never remembered, lies Fish Shop. It’s the kind of place people in the know talk about like it’s a secret, even though it hasn’t been one for years. 

The gang behind Fish Shop have called Benburb Street home since 2016, and since their conception, they have been committed to providing Dublin with a tight menu, featuring whatever they can get their hands on that day, and nothing more. Headlined, naturally, by their freshest fish, beer-battered (damn well), and complemented by an ever-changing roster of wines - from self-stylised beach party rosé to sharp, acidic and almost aggressive Viennese Riesling. 

Their offering is only complemented by the dining room. A sub-20-seat space, all counter-style seating, wooden stools - giving that high-end feel in an undeniably local setting, and more importantly, nowhere to hide. Those of us who are lucky enough to sit at the main counter bar get a front row ticket to Fish Shop's last line of defence. From the primetime seat, you feel like you’re in the thick of it - watching everything come together in real time. No theatrics, no pomp; just people who know what they’re doing, doing it properly. 

A few weeks back I made it to Fish Shop for the first time. Admittedly, this is a place that has been on my mental shortlist for a while - always meaning to book, then not, and now here we are.

Regardless, as a man of Northern English stock, fish and chips isn’t just a meal - it’s an institution, something taken a little bit too seriously. Like a New Yorker and their Chopped Cheese, the Northern English believe their way of doing it is the best - but Fish Shop could get into the ring with any of the Northern chippies AND go round for round.

It’s that good.

We went for the cod (because you’d have to) and the hake. Simply put; they were brilliant - the batter was light and crisp but still present enough for you to get that crunch. And then there’s that subtle boozy flavour from a good beer batter - which is the difference between frying fish and building a meal.

The cod was thick and juicy, in a way that I hadn’t experienced before, and have been left longing for since. The hake had that little bit more flavour, as expected, and was a bit less of a mouthful than the cod, but was delicious in its own right. 

The chips were exactly what you’d want too; that carb-heavy release does its job without any frills. And, if you’re like me and you let them swim in vinegar, they cut through the grease of the rest of the plate in the best possible way. 

Obviously, we had to get one of the internet's favourite desserts, the STP. Not an all-time favourite of mine, but it went down a treat with company, who assured me that it was top quality.

I’ll probably keep pretending I’m an authority on fish and chips after this.

But the truth is, I’d go back here tomorrow and not think twice about it.